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100% vegetable rapeseed wax for container candles or perfumed molds or scented or unscented cast candles, of European manufacture and origin.
GMO-free guarantee. Residual levels of pesticides and others below tolerated levels in food. (Maximum residual levels below 0.0001% in the wax)
Wax composition:100% rapeseed and nothing else...
100% natural, 100% vegetable (vegan wax), and biodegradable.
This wax has an excellent olfactory rendering hot and cold. Exclusively from European cultures.
France is the leading European producer of rapeseed and Europe is the leading producer worldwide. This crop, which embellishes our landscapes with a yellow color in April-May, produces seeds rich in oils and vegetable proteins.
Rapeseed wax is not the easiest to work with but it results in beautiful truly ethical candles. It is therefore an aesthetic solution, as well as being ethical.
Rapeseed is a local product, grown in existing fields to allow the soil time to regenerate in between two crops.
It requires fairly cold pouring and a fairly well-controlled environment. We recommend the addition of a crystallization additive like stearin for easier use and a better aesthetic result (3 to 10%).
We also recommend heating the glasses so that the crystallization is as slow as possible. cooling too quickly can cause cracks or wet spots.
This 100% rapeseed wax can be also used as a natural additive to harden/soften other natural waxes and obtain lower melt temperatures.
This renewable material has been developed to produce high-quality candle blends. Rapeseed Wax comes from the oil that is harvested from the plant, it is an ideal sustainable eco-wax. The Rapeseed crop sources are from locally grown non-GM crops in the UK, France, and Germany.As it is a hard wax you may want to add a small percentage ( 20%-30% ) of a softer wax such as soy and make your own exclusive blend. As it is, very hard and brittle, it works well in a blend if you want to use it as a container wax but to use it as a wax for melts it works very, very well with no blends.
The adhesion improves a lot with 10/15% coconut wax or 20% soy.
But it improves, in the blends for containers, if you add, as well, some 3-10 % of rapeseed stearin, to improve the setting between burns and help with the frosting.
As it is naturally a hard wax it's good for perfumed molds - Resulting in very nice and shiny fragranced molds. It requires less fragrance than soy or coconut waxes.
Take these brands as inspiration :
Here it's Eco credentials
Interested in knowing about rapeseed crops in Europe, here is an extensive article.
Click here to know the AAK source and how rapeseed oil is used in the waxes.
Don't work with rapeseed wax as you do with soy wax. Rapeseed wax is a bit sensitive and likes to be treated with a lot of attention.
As an example, to melt it, you have to heat it to a temperature of at least 60ºC but never above 75°C if you don't want to damage its crystalline structure. The container (assuming you're making a container candle) will have to be at least at room temperature but preferably heated to around 45ºC. Adding dye to the wax happens around 70ºC (some solid dyes will not melt under that temperature) and adding fragrance oil is best done between 55°C and 60ºC. Finally, pouring into the (still at 45ºC) container is done at a rather low temperature. Manufacturers often mention 50ºC but experience shows that a lower temperature (as low as 38ºC) gives better results. Let the candle cool off as slowly as possible in a room that is not chiller than 20ºC
Rapeseed wax has a natural inclination to display some level of frosting at its surface and will often develop cracks; following the instructions relative to the different temperatures will help minimize these symptoms but not eliminate them completely. Surface cracks can usually be mended using a heat gun but other than that, these imperfections are like the signature of rapeseed wax and the price to pay if you want to use a truly natural and environmentally responsible wax.
Once poured, it is recommended to let your container candles cure for at least a week at room temperature before using them.
With rapeseed, you will need a thicker wick than those used in soy wax and much thicker than those used in blends with coconut wax.
From our tests, we could see that in between burns this wax doesn't present the most smooth surface ( typical from vegetal waxes ). It improves with the addition of a small percentage of 2-5% of stearine of rapeseed ( a special product for rapeseed waxes). If you are using 1 Kg of wax start with 20g of stearine.
Regarding wicks for containers :
The wick you use will be an average of two sizes above what you would normally use in a soy wax container candle of the same size/diameter. The ideal wick for rapeseed wax is one in the TCR Series
|Wick TCR||Container Diameter|
Note: This is just a starting point as there are many variables that can affect burning.
Packaging: in pellets.
in bags of 1,5,10 and 20kg.
We tested 160g of Rapeseed Wax + 40 g Soy 464 +10 g of rapeseed stearin +14 g of Fragrance Oil ( we tested Gold, Frankincense & Myrrh) with a TCR 36/20 wick, and the resettings between burning cycles were beautiful in a 30 cl container glass Aurelie.
Great, great HT and CT ( hot throw and cold throw). One of the best
Also, this recipe can be used as a refill as the candle comes out of the glass beautifully.
For other fragrances or other soy wax just test and adjust the wick if necessary.
Taking vegetable wax molds out of silicone molds can be a delicate process to prevent breakage or damage. Here's a step-by-step guide with some tips and tricks to make it easier:
Prepare Your Work Area:
Use a Release Agent:
Pour the Wax Carefully:
Cooling and Setting:
Gently Flex the Mold:
Start at the Edges:
Use a Soft Tool:
Warm the Mold Slightly:
Patience is Key:
Inspect for Breaks:
Clean and Store:
Remember that practice makes perfect. It may take a few tries to get the hang of removing wax molds from silicone molds without breaking them. Additionally, the quality of your silicone mold and the type of wax you use can also influence the ease of removal. High-quality molds and proper techniques will typically yield better results.
Silicone molds are known for their non-stick properties, and in many cases, they do not require a release agent. However, whether you need a release agent for silicone molds can depend on several factors:
Type of Silicone Mold: Most silicone molds designed for crafting, baking, or soap-making are naturally non-stick, and you can often use them without a release agent.
The complexity of the Mold: If you're using a silicone mold with intricate details, deep crevices, or undercuts, it may be a good idea to use a release agent to ensure easy removal of the molded item.
Type of Material Being Molded: Some materials may have a tendency to stick to silicone more than others. For example, certain types of wax, resin, or clay may require a release agent, while others may not.
Personal Preference: Some individuals prefer to use a release agent as an added precaution to ensure that their molded items come out easily and without any risk of damage.
Reuse of the Mold: Using a release agent can also prolong the life of your silicone mold by preventing any build-up or residue from repeated use.
In many cases, you can start by trying to use your silicone mold without a release agent. If you find that the material sticks or has difficulty coming out of the mold, then consider using a suitable release agent. Common release agents include silicone mold release sprays, vegetable oil, or even a light dusting of cornstarch for certain applications.
Ultimately, the decision to use a release agent with your silicone mold should be based on your specific project and the materials you're working with. Experimentation may be necessary to determine the best approach for your particular situation.
Esta cera de colza é fantástica. Ainda estou em fase de testes: sozinha, com outra cera mais macia e com estaria de colza. Não tem o topo mais bonito. Mesmo com a estaria, a cera ee coco e o soprador não vejo alterações nos topos. Mas agrega muito bem a essência sem exigir demasiada essência. O que é óptimo, para além de económico. Exala muito bem a frio e a quente. Se deixo uma das velas destacada, ainda antes de fazer o teste se queima, o aroma já se espalha por uma divisão bastante grande. Claro que as essências serem óptimas também ajuda. É uma cera muito branca. E funciona tão bem em recipiente quanto em moldes. Já a utilizei sem estearina em moldes e saiu quase perfeita, só nalguns pequenos pontos é que te traiu do molde. Mas é muito pouco e normal para uma cera vegetal como esta. É de facto sensível e mesmo aplicando todas as técnicas de aquecer os recipientes ou moldes, corrigir os topos, agregar estearina já derretida, a superfície não é das mais bonitas, como já mencionei e tem algum frosting e wet spots. No entanto, é e continuará a ser a minha cera de eleição pela suas características positivas: ecológica, sustentável, requer menos essência que outras ceras, exala muito bem a frio e a quente, é muito branca. Agora é continuar a testar e tentar melhorar a superfície, mas se não for possível, fico muito satisfeita com esta cera se qualquer forma.
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